A Kinder, Gentler World...

I have long been an advocate of positive training. Like so many people, I'm what is known as a "cross-over" trainer. We learned the old aversive methods and I disliked them intensely even then. I loathed the sight of a choke collar. And with good cause. The name itself explains it. And I have to wonder: what part of choke don't people understand? Oh, sure, aversive trainers use words like "pop," as if it were an insignificant movement by the human. It is not insignificant. They call it a "training collar." Another name doesn't change it. And alpha rolls are not a means of communication between dogs and owners; they are a good way to get bitten. It's rather like sitting up and begging to be bitten. Humans are not dogs and vice versa. Aversives might work in the short term but aggression begets aggression and sooner or later, those methods will backfire. They will surely damage the human-animal bond. What good is a relationship that's built on fear?

Old-fashioned trainers talk about "dominance." Are they so insecure that they feel they have to be "dominant" over an animal? If you watch that sort of "training" on videotape or television, turn off the sound and watch the dog. What do you see? The answer is fear. And fear is not a good foundation for a relationship with a living, breathing, sentient being. Practicing 30 year old training methodologies, or going to a trainer who does, is pretty much like taking your dog to a veterinarian who practices 30 year old medical methodologies. Why would you want to do that?

I'm very pleased to say that I'm not alone in believing that operant conditioning (clicker training), or lure and reward based methods, are far better and create a strong bond. There are many trainers, behaviorists, and behavior consultants who also strongly believe this, and seeing is believing. Dogs with positive training are competing in all canine sports and doing well at the highest levels. Even more importantly: they're living in homes as beloved family members with a very tightly shared bond and it certainly wasn't fear that led them there.

It is important to note that the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recently released a position statement titled, "The Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals." (http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=80&Itemid=366) The paper can be downloaded in .pdf form from their website. I strongly urge you to read this position statement and point others in its direction as well.

"I sing for the animals..,." Teton Sioux. They did. We should, too. We must speak for those who cannot speak for themselves. When we bring them into our homes, when we see them with their owners, we must give them voice. We must not allow the misguided "training" that is tantamount to abuse.

There are those who insist the old methods are the only way. How sad that they will not acknowledge that it isn't true, will not even try another way, that they are so stuck in the past that they cannot see the present, let alone the future. Positive training is so simple that even a child can do it. It opens up a line of communication between the four-legged companion and his or her human family and helps create a loving, lasting bond. Isn't that what we want?

There are many places where you can find positive training as well as behavior consultants practicing positive training methodologies. A good place to start learning about positive training is Karen Pryor's website (www.clickertraining.com) where you will find resources including a listing of trainers who use operant conditioning.

If you have problems, you can find Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorists who can help you. The American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (www.dacvb.org) has an online presence. Your veterinarian can refer you to a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist if there's one in your area. There are Applied Animal Behaviorists (http://www.animalbehavior.org/ABSAppliedBehavior) and there are Certified Animal Behavior Consultants certified by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (www.iaabc.org).

There is nothing better than building a bond of trust. And, yes, you can solve behavior problems using positive methods. I filled a book ("Rover, Get Off Her Leg!") with positive ways to solve problems. Emma Parsons wrote a wonderful book, "Click to Calm," on solving dog aggression problems with positive methods. Those are only two of many books and DVDs available to help people and their dogs.

Do yourself, and your dog, a favor and, as the classic song title proclaimed, "Accentuate the Positive."

Toys for Dogs & Cats

I know you're thinking about holiday gift-giving. Dogs and cats are a great part of that. We not only buy things for them but for our friends' companions as well.

I want to take a minute or two to remind you to be careful when buying toys for your pets or others. There is no regulatory group for pet toys. The industry relies on manufacturers to police themselves. That cute little toy you've been admiring may not be the safest thing for your beloved companion. And the way in which you play must also be considered.

Look for loose parts. If you can loosen it, your dog or cat can, too. And if the pet consumes it, disaster may follow with a swallowed toy, or toy part, getting lodged in your pet's throat or intestinal tract. A visit to the veterinarian or emergency veterinary hospital may ensue. And so might an expensive surgery to remove said object.

Dog toys with squeakers can be a real problem if the squeaker isn't secure. Remove the squeaker before the dog or puppies does precisely that and swallows it. Any little piece glued on can be easily removed. Chew toys made like twisted rags can shred and the yarn can be swallowed. They can also get very dirty. They're not a great idea unless they can be used to grab a loose tooth. Supervise all play with this type of toy.

Be careful of feathers on cat toys. They will usually come off and can be swallowed. Mylar cat teasers can cause the equivilent of a paper cut on the cat's mouth if it is caught by the cat at a certain angle. Why take a chance?

Interactive cat toys must be put away between play sessions. Cats can easily get tangled up in the wire or cord or string. Make play sessions with these toys special times for interaction each day instead.

Laser toys shouldn't be on your list. Having had laser surgery on my eye, I can tell you how powerful a laser can be and a rapidly moving dog or cat can easily find the light in their eye while the well-meaning owner is trying to keep up with movement. Opt for another toy instead. You can always use a flashlight if you want to play with a light. But be certain that the game starts with the light coming from a specific place and is "returned" to that specific place when the game ends so your dog or cat doesn't go crazy looking for the light!

If you're buying your cat a new cat tree or scratching post, be certain that it has a solid base and can't be tipped over. Also your cat should be able to stretch out full-length against it.

Dog toys that can be stuffed should have an opening at the other end so it doesn't create a vacuum, allowing the dog's tongue to be caught inside.

Inspect everything! Don't buy anything that looks "iffy." Since there is no overseeing body to ensure safety it's up to you to inspect all toys as you would for a small child.

And remember to stay in the room the first time you give a new toy to your pet. You want to be there in case something goes wrong. If there's a problem, you want to be there, on the spot to intervene. Your pets are depending on you!

Have a wonderful, safe holiday!

Thanksgiving and The Family Dog

Ahhh, Thanksgiving. It's coming and so are the guests. And the tempting kitchen smells. Turkey roasting in the oven, potatoes, yams, and the desserts. Apple pie, pumpkin pie, pecan pie. Well, you get the idea and if you're anything like me, you're drooling at the thought. Guess who else is getting excited? Your canine companion.

If you've read my behavior book, "Rover, Get Off Her Leg!" (H.C.I. Communications) you know what dogs are capable of doing during a holiday when those smells are soooo tempting. You know where that turkey can end up and in what condition. And with company coming your dog will have to be on his or her best behavior.

Now is the time to start thinking about your dog's "company manners," his comportment, her etiquette in polite company. Well, truthfully, you should have thought about it sooner but better late than never.

Be sure you feed your dog early in the day. Your dog's daily ration should be divided into two separate meals. One fed at breakfast and the other at dinnertime. Your dog will be eating when you are so there's less temptation to give in to his pitiful glances. Never feed your dog at the table. He should learn early on that he waits politely until the family has finished eating and then he can receive a treat, whether that's in the middle of the afternoon, or in the evening. During the holiday, that treat can be a small piece of turkey. He is not allowed to beg, climb up on the table (yes, dogs do that!) or otherwise cajole family members and guests into giving him food from their plates. Remember that onions are poisonous to dogs so keep those well out of reach. The same for chocolate! And nothing laced with nutmeg....

Your dog should also greet visitors politely, with all four feet on the floor. No jumping up allowed. It's too easy for many dogs to knock Grandma or Grandpa off their feet. While this face-to-face greeting is normal dog behavior, it is not normal human behavior and your dog is living in human society and will need to learn the rules of comportment. Sitting politely and waiting to be acknowledged is optimum. Getting underfoot can be equally hazardous for some family members.

You'll also have to enlist the cooperation of your guests. They can't pet the dog unless he's either sitting or standing quietly and no sneaking food to the dog under the table!

Thanksgiving can be a wonderful holiday or a complete canine disaster. The choice is yours. Start training now with positive reinforcement, setting your dog up to do the right thing so he can be rewarded for it. This will pay dividends in the end, for you and for your dog.

Happy Thanksgiving to you and your four-legged family members.

Presidents, Dogs and The Right Stuff

There has been so much talk recently about the president elect's plan to get a puppy for his daughters, and the current president's dog biting a reporter. I promised myself I wouldn't add to the white noise of discussion and yet, here I am. I think it's because I'm frustrated by both situations.

Let's start with the current administration. There's no doubt in my mind that President George and Laura Bush love their Scotties. I don't know how the dogs were trained but I have my suspicions. There were at least two factors coming into play when dog teeth met reporter's hand. First and foremost, it's imperative that everyone know how to properly approach a dog. Never, ever swoop down on a dog and shove your hand at him. This simply isn't prudent. The dog-loving reporter was not dog-savvy. No dog likes anyone to swoop down on him. And you should never reach out to a strange dog. Move slowly. Get down to the dog's level if possible. Always present a strange dog with your closed hand and let him sniff your knuckles. And before you even think about doing any of that, ask if you may pat the dog. The dog's owner or handler will be able to tell you if that's a good idea. You, too, can avoid being bitten.

Add to this the dog breed. The Scottish Terrier is pretty well known for being "dour." Terriers are feisty dogs and the Scottie is no exception. He is, perhaps, not the best choice for a dog who is going to be greeting strangers. Any dog would be hard-pressed to be warm and welcoming all the time when being approached incorrectly by strangers, or even by people he knows. Put the huge press corp on the lawn with cameras, etc. and you have an accident waiting to happen.

Now we have a President Elect who has promised his children a puppy. One child is allergic to dogs and he's saying that he can get a "hypoallergenic" dog. Uh, sorry. There's no such thing and whoever told him this was doing his family and the potential new four-legged family member a great disservice. Dogs who have hair, not fur, are far less likely to cause a problem however the problem lies with the dander, not the hair or fur. To bring home a puppy and then discover that the child is allergic is going to cause a problem not just for the family but for the puppy as well who will be uprooted from his original home and then will be a likely candidate for rehoming after he washes out as First Pet.

Then there was that horrible moment when Obama stated that it wouldn't be a small dog because he wouldn't walk a small dog. Let me state unequivocally that I do not recommend Toy dogs for homes with children despite the plaintive voice of one of the Obama daughters mentioning a "Yorkshire." It's seldom a good match. I say that as someone whose area of expertise is Toy and Small dogs. But the statement that he wouldn't walk a small dog? I have often said, and I'm not the first to say it, that it takes a big man to walk a little dog, is true. It takes a man who is secure in his masculinity, is sure of himself as a person to care only that he has a dog he loves who loves him and those he loves. Size doesn't matter to such men. For those who won't walk a small dog, well, I have said before that those people have a problem that I can't handle.

An issue that is important for every dog, whether in the White House or your house, is training along with socialization. All dogs and puppies must be properly socialized. Crucial to the way in which the dog or puppy will respond to those around him is the way in which he's trained. Aggression begets aggression and training a dog with old, aversive methods will only come back to bite you. Literally. Some of those things may work in the short term but sooner or later the dog will react. Operant conditioning is ideal. Even a child can do it. Literally. And this would be the ideal way to get the children involved with their new dog.

So, how to choose that dog or puppy? A shelter dog would be right for most families but there's less of a chance of finding one who won't cause allergy problems. Better is to find a breed that the child can tolerate and then go to Breed Rescue for that specific breed and give a forever home to a dog who deserves a second chance, who may have been thrown away by his first owner for any one of a myriad of stupid reasons. Whatever they do, I hope for the sake of the dog and the children that the commitment is for the dog's lifetime. And doing it right is having the right stuff.

Air Travel with Dogs and Cats

I used to travel by air with my four-legged companions. I prefer carrying a dog or cat on board, tucking the little one under the seat in a safe carrier, rather than having my hairy companion in the cargo hold. It's one of the advantages of a smaller dog or cat. There has always been a fly in the ointment, however. The airlines do not charge for a carry-on unless there's a dog or cat in it. In other words, if you take your laptop computer aboard in a case, it costs you nothing. If you take your dog or cat in a carry-on case, it used to cost approximately $100. each way. You would pay for the privilege of losing leg room.

When asked, the airlines would cite "allergy" if pushed. No one had a real answer because there is no regulation regarding this. It was simply a matter of charging extra because they could. Seldom did you hear a sound out of the carrier. In fact, in all my years of flying, I've never heard from a dog or cat onboard. I cannot say the same for the infants whose parents didn't have the common sense to put a bottle into a baby's mouth on take-off and landing to counteract the change in air pressure. What I did hear was a lifetime of loudly screaming infants on planes. Then there have been the children who have pulled hair, kicked my seat repeatedly, screamed, yelled, whined. Well, you get the idea.

As for the allergy excuse, and it is my understanding that one airline in Canada has banned pets because some person got a doctor to complain, the excuse simply isn't valid. If dogs and cats are to be banned because of allergy, what about the women reeking as if they were standing next to the perfume counter when it exploded? Or the men who are doused in strong after shave? Anyone with asthma can tell you what that is like. Or a migraineur whose migraine is triggered by strong odors. Or the people who smell of cigarettes and cigars? What of those people who cause discomfort to other passengers and can, in some cases, make them downright ill? I was on a flight from NY to London a few years ago when a horrible stench was suddenly filling the cabin. It was pretty scary since many of us thought there was something wrong with the plane. It turned out to be coming from a woman a couple of rows ahead of me who was using nail polish remover and giving herself a manicure inflight! Often it's the flight attendants who are wearing an unearthly amount of perfume or aftershave.

I have sat next to a woman who threw up all the way across the Atlantic. People with colds and flu passing their germs through the cabin. Never once have I been disturbed by a dog or cat. But those respectful pet owners who care enough to carry their well-mannered dogs and cats with them have been punished by the airlines with exhorbitant charges.

The airlines are losing business thanks to the cost of fuel. They are belt-tightening, which is prudent. However, going after dog and cat owners is not likely to be very prudent. A friend who travels a good deal with her dogs made arrangements for two trips. The news of the new carry-on price for pets was nothing short of sticker shock. Her flight from JFK to Cleveland is $167. for her seat and $300. for her tiny dog to fly under the seat! Yes, you read that correctly: THREE HUNDRED DOLLARS! And she is the only one losing leg room! Her dog, by the way, has hair not fur, so if they're pleading allergy (and I don't think she has heard why they are charging so much), it won't fly. Any pun intended. For her flight from JFK to Long Beach, CA she is paying $299. for her seat and $200. for her dog to fly under the seat.

It is patently unfair.

People carrying dogs and cats to dog or cat shows have found air travel convenient but how many of them will now find it better to drive? It may take a little longer but the fuel costs for driving may well be less than those of flying with a dog or cat when outrageous costs are tacked on by the airlines for a carry-on. That's business lost to the airlines. Maybe they think they can afford it. Maybe they don't know exactly how many people travel for dog shows, cat shows, canine musical freestyle competitions, etc. They may be about to find out.

Breed Rescue and Shelters

I love a really good animal shelter. A really good one is clean, safe, and linked into a network of caring people. Volunteers who are adept at handling dogs and cats work with them to make life less frightening for them in the shelter environment and try to make them more adoptable.

Karen Pryor's shelter pets program is a particularly good one that I'd like to see in use in shelters around the world. Volunteers are taught to clicker train the dogs, cats, puppies and kittens. They not only find life more interesting but are more adoptable when they can go to their new homes having learned a thing or two.

The one area in which shelters fall down, in my opinion, is in their misunderstanding and underuse of dog and cat Breed Rescue volunteers. The problem seems to be endemic in U.S. shelters. I don't understand why so many either don't know or are unwilling to learn how to use these people most effectively, to take advantage of their expertise in their breed.

For the purpose of brevity and I hope, clarity, I will talk about dogs but this also applies to cats.

When a purebred dog or cat is turned into a shelter, they go into the system. In a kill shelter there are only a few precious days in which to get them out before they're put down. (The euphemism for killing, "put down," doesn't please me since I prefer to be crystal clear about the act.) Most shelters put the animals up for adoption by the public once they have been deemed adoptable. This includes health exam, possibly spay or neuter and some sort of temperament test that, frankly, isn't consistently good or useful. Before shelter people start screaming at me, I know that you're doing the best that you can and listening to a bunch of "experts" who are often just people who are exceptionally good at self-promotion and earning money through these "lectures." The public has the first crack at adopting these purebreds. Throughout this process of intake, evaluation and adoption is where I think the shelters are not on track with breed rescue and are not properly utilizing this invaluable resource.

Each breed has its own characteristics, health and temperament issues, etc. These are best known to people who have been in the breed for awhile and are experienced in evaluating, training and placing members of their breed. The ideal situation is for the shelter workers to learn to identify the breed, refer to their list of breed rescue contacts (and every shelter should have a such a list clearly available in their office) and call the appropriate person.

The breed rescue person will have a volunteer go to the shelter, "pull" the dog (take him out of the shelter) and will take the dog home for evaluation, medical care, training, and if the dog is a good candidate, placement in a "forever home" that has been carefully screened by someone who knows that breed and is uniquely qualified to make that decision.

Small dogs in shelters, for example, do quite poorly since they're frightened, cold (they lose body heat more quickly than larger dogs), and deprived of the human interaction that is essential for them to do well. They can exhibit fear biting in a shelter setting that would never otherwise happen in a home. It's their only defense when they're terrified. All dogs and cats lose heart and begin to withdraw when placed in a cage with no real love and human contact, without a home of their own. Even a temporary home with a breed rescue foster volunteer is a home where the companion animal will do far better than in the shelter setting.

By getting these dogs into Breed Rescue, the shelter will then have room for more of the mixed breed dogs who also need a home. There will be more space for them when the purebreds are in Foster Care.

Why don't most shelter people understand this and see the value in it? I honestly don't know. Years ago, the head of a large shelter asked, plaintively, why I couldn't get the Toy Dog Rescue people to take the larger purebred dogs since she could place the small dogs. Wow! I was stunned by her lack of understanding of the concept of Breed Rescue. It still makes me shake my head in wonder, even today.

Shelters should not be a cheap pet shop for the public who want a Purebred. Those people who want to adopt a purebred can go to Breed Rescue. The Purebred Rescue groups can be found at the American Kennel Club's website: www.akc.org.

I would love to see the day when there is no further need for shelters, when every dog and cat will be in his or her "forever home." But until resources are properly used that day keeps getting pushed further and further away.

Physical Therapy for Pets

There was a time when people would have physical therapy when they had a problem but never considered it for their pets. It never crossed their minds that their companion might need the same sort of help. Physical Therapy for dogs and cats is something that hasn't been around as long. Why? Who knows?! Obviously, it's beneficial for the pet who has had surgery, been in an accident or has a chronic physical problem.

Veterinary physical therapy practices are beginning to spring up in the U.S., Canada, and other countries. One such practice, Sterling Impression Animal Rehabilitation Center of New England in Walpole, Massachusetts (www.starcone.com) sits in a small strip mall. An unlikely location but a convenient one for pet owners. 

Inside the doors are an underwater treadmill and a hydrotherapy pool and that's only the beginning. Dr. Marjorie McMillan created Sterling Impression when she realized there had to be a better way to treat animals with lameness problems. The veterinarian had spent 2 years carrying her paralyzed 15-year-old Labrador Retriever. The issue was personal for her. She knew how owners with lame pets felt because she was one. Dr. McMillan headed to the University of Tennessee Veterinary School to learn Physical Therapy where groundbreaking work was, and is, being done in this field. 

Dr. McMillan and Cathy Simons, CVT, created the Water Wellness Center and changed the name to Sterling Impression  when they moved the location of their practice to allow for the heated lap pool and whirlpool area. Why Sterling? That was the name of Dr. McMillan's beloved Labrador Retriever. Show me a pet owner who can't relate to the reason for the change of name.

Therapeutic ultrasound, custom-made carts and more can be involved in the treatment. Mobility issues are helped in many ways, and getting the immobile large dog into the pool happens with the assist of a hydraulic lift. And I should mention that even cats benefit from water therapy.

Spending a day there was one of the most heart-warming experiences I've had. Watching dogs walk using the underwater treadmill, going for laps around the mall with a little dog whose hind legs were in a cart, watching pets wearing life vests and swimming after toys that are thrown across the lap pool is heartwarming. You can see how much better they feel. Massage therapy also helps these beloved companions. The care and concern of the staff matches that of the owners. This is a team effort and it pays off for the pets, the owners, and the staff who take pride in their accomplishment when they see the results of their work.  

Sterling Impression is a happy place where feeling better is a great feeling for everyone involved.