Yesterday I lost a colleague. Kathryn Hopper, a member of the Cat Writers' Association, died far too young. Only in her 40s, she should have had many more years on earth yet she did more with the years she had than most.
Kathryn was in a shelter when she was captivated by a 6 year old Siamese. She brought Fritz home not knowing that he had feline asthma. She not only nursed this sick cat, she set about helping others. Ultimately, Fritz died but Kathryn was unceasing in her efforts to research this disease and to help other owners whose cats also had asthma.
She was in almost constant contact with Dr. Philip Padrid and made his resources available on the website she created: www.fritzthebrave.com. The site became the ultimate reference source for anyone interested in learning more about this disease and helping the cats with feline asthma.
My heart aches at the thought of a world that has been diminished by this loss, of grieving family and friends. But she leaves a wonderful legacy.
Wednesday, February 11, 2009
Friday, January 16, 2009
Winter Hazards
Winter weather brings special hazards for our four-legged companions. So many, in fact, that it requires a good deal of thought on the part of the owner to keep their dog or cat safe and healthy.
All cats should be indoors with lots of environmental enrichment but you'll notice in Winter that cats (and dogs) will sleep more and exercise less. This means that you will have to find ways to keep your four-legged companion more active. If it's extremely cold you're dog can't go out for extended periods of time - it's just too dangerous - but you can find games to play indoors. You can hide treats around the house and let your dog "find" them. And remember that all treats should be figured in with the amount of food your dog or cat eats so there's no weight gain. You can practice canine musical freestyle steps - put on some music and dance with your dog! Even my cat enjoys dance steps. You can start clicker training if you haven't already begun and teach your dog some new tricks. Your cat, too! Cats are certainly capable of doing the behaviors a dog can do and your cat will likely surprise you when you discover how smart she is! You can toss a toy for games of fetch and you can set up a mini-agility course indoors for your dog or cat. Yes, cats do agility, too!
If you have a small dog, he's going to lose body heat more rapidly than his larger cousins. He'll need a warm coat or sweater and time outdoors should be limited. Your dog can get frostbite, too.
If you're walking your dog on roads that are salted, or past a neighbor's salted driveway, be sure to clean his feet thoroughly as soon as you come home. You don't want him ingesting the salt when he licks his feet and you certainly want to get out the "snowballs" that will form between his toes. If you can get your dog accustomed to wearing dog booties on your walks it will be helpful in protecting his feet. Be careful of ice. If you slip and fall it's only too easy for your dog to slip his lead or pull it out of your hand. You may want to buy those slips-on with studs attached to go over your boots and help keep you from slipping.
On cold days, do not take your dog or cat in the car with you when you run errands. Leaving your pet in the car on a very cold day is as dangerous - potentially lethal - as leaving him in the car on a very hot day.
And at the end of the day, there's nothing better than a snuggle with you four-legged companion. Love and companionship and that all-important human-animal bond is what it's all about.
All cats should be indoors with lots of environmental enrichment but you'll notice in Winter that cats (and dogs) will sleep more and exercise less. This means that you will have to find ways to keep your four-legged companion more active. If it's extremely cold you're dog can't go out for extended periods of time - it's just too dangerous - but you can find games to play indoors. You can hide treats around the house and let your dog "find" them. And remember that all treats should be figured in with the amount of food your dog or cat eats so there's no weight gain. You can practice canine musical freestyle steps - put on some music and dance with your dog! Even my cat enjoys dance steps. You can start clicker training if you haven't already begun and teach your dog some new tricks. Your cat, too! Cats are certainly capable of doing the behaviors a dog can do and your cat will likely surprise you when you discover how smart she is! You can toss a toy for games of fetch and you can set up a mini-agility course indoors for your dog or cat. Yes, cats do agility, too!
If you have a small dog, he's going to lose body heat more rapidly than his larger cousins. He'll need a warm coat or sweater and time outdoors should be limited. Your dog can get frostbite, too.
If you're walking your dog on roads that are salted, or past a neighbor's salted driveway, be sure to clean his feet thoroughly as soon as you come home. You don't want him ingesting the salt when he licks his feet and you certainly want to get out the "snowballs" that will form between his toes. If you can get your dog accustomed to wearing dog booties on your walks it will be helpful in protecting his feet. Be careful of ice. If you slip and fall it's only too easy for your dog to slip his lead or pull it out of your hand. You may want to buy those slips-on with studs attached to go over your boots and help keep you from slipping.
On cold days, do not take your dog or cat in the car with you when you run errands. Leaving your pet in the car on a very cold day is as dangerous - potentially lethal - as leaving him in the car on a very hot day.
And at the end of the day, there's nothing better than a snuggle with you four-legged companion. Love and companionship and that all-important human-animal bond is what it's all about.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Emergency!
One of the most horrible things any pet owner can face is a sick dog or cat who requires emergency treatment when their veterinary hospital is closed and they have to rely on an emergency hospital. It can be the best, or worst, experience of your pet-owning life.
One of my friends had a horribly sick cat. He was bleeding and it was impossible to tell why. Off she raced to a nearby emergency hospital. The cat went into shock as soon as he was taken back to be examined. It was ultimately discovered, on x-ray, that he had swallowed something. No one knew what it could be since my friend is very careful to keep everything locked away and out of reach of a curious kitty. When he finally passed it, it turned out to be a necklace lost in my friend’s house by a neighbor child. It had cut the cat up so badly inside that the veterinary internal medicine specialist was amazed that he had healed so well. Fortunately, he is home and recovering although I doubt as much can be said for my friend’s bank balance. But that was not her consideration when trying to save her beloved cat’s life.
Others have not fared as well.
One of my friends is a delivery room nurse at a major hospital. She’s a dog breeder with a good deal of experience and her education helps her with veterinary emergencies. Her veterinarian had moved to a new house and didn’t have phones in her bedroom yet when my friend had a litter due imminently. My friend had spoken with her in the early evening and they planned a c-section but it appeared that the little mother-to-be had gone to sleep. She woke up in full blown labor and my friend couldn’t reach her veterinarian so she brought the little dog to the emergency hospital and told them she needed a c-section. They said they’d be the judge of that and took her back to examine her. They said she was quiet and put her in a quiet, dark room. My friend asked if they’d ever seen that breed before. They hadn’t. She told them that she’d been breeding them for a number of years and she c-sectioned her dogs because, as a man-made breed, she knew the pelvis of the mother is usually too small to accommodate the large heads that these dogs have. She didn’t want to lose a puppy. She also told them that the girl’s mother and sister both had needed c-sections because the puppies wouldn’t fit through the pelvis. Amazingly enough, they argued with her! She said she wanted to see the attending. Incredibly, they said there wasn’t one in house. They determined the puppy was in the birth canal but said they wouldn’t guarantee the safety of the pup. They wanted to give her pitocin (to increase labor). My friend told them the head was too big for the pelvis and pitocin would only serve to ram the head into unyielding bones and not do anything except to exhaust the mother and injure, if not kill, the other pups.
My friend told them that she was a Labor and Delivery Room Nurse and they said that the human model is not the same as the canine one to which my friend replied that the basics are still the same: the passage, the passenger, and the forces.
My friend was very frustrated because she knew what had to be done and all they had done was argue with her for 3 ½ precious hours! Time was quickly slipping by when they finally said they’d take blood and call the attending at home with the results. She asked if they could call him and have him come in while the bloodwork was done. They said it wasn’t the policy. They’d give him the results before he came in. When he finally arrived, after they made her sign papers that she had refused pitocin, they did the C-Section and the puppy was dead. She asked if the puppy was the biggest in the litter. The attending said it was the smallest. She explained that if he, being the smallest, couldn’t fit through, could he imagine what would have happened to the other four larger puppies if the dam had pitocin? He stared over her head. My friend was relieved to get out of there with the mother and surviving puppies. I keep thinking of that other puppy who was dead as a result of the unyielding intern who was obviously inept and uninformed and claimed to be following policy. They are clearly responsible for that puppy’s death.
And then, in another part of the country is an owner who had two dogs die, separately, in an emergency hospital. Her Toy dog was sprayed by a poisonous Colorado Bull Toad, and she had to rush him to the hospital in the middle of the night. They gave him a drug not tested for poisoning in dogs and he died as a direct result of improper treatment. The drug is meant to stop car sickness and she questioned that since you are supposed to make a dog vomit up poisonous material, not stop him from getting it out of his system. An incorrectly administered drug that hadn’t even been tested for that purpose.
Her other dog died because the hospital was in violation of a State code: they didn’t have proper staff on duty with proper credentials. The State in which she resides requires that a 24 hour emergency hospital have a board certified emergency veterinarian in the building. Twice she has been there when there has only been an Intern in the hospital, a direct violation of the regulations. They also said they couldn’t treat the dog, they hadn’t so much as x-rayed him, and they insisted he be moved which is something that shouldn’t be done with a critically ill patient of any species. By the time he got to the next hospital, where he was x-rayed, his lungs had filled with fluid. Nothing could save him at that point, no matter how much money she was willing to spend. He died at the second hospital.
What has happened to each of these owners and their dogs is unconscionable. We must demand better treatment and competent staffing. There must be more than the almighty dollar of importance to these emergency hospitals. There has to be accountability. If they cannot operate properly and with proper staffing then they should not be allowed to operate.
Then where will owners go? Well, I have to wonder whether there’s any difference between no emergency hospital and one that does such a disservice to animals and their owners that the end result is a dead dog or cat, a heartbroken owner, and an outrageous veterinary bill. Perhaps for those facilities the bottom line is really all that matters.
One of my friends had a horribly sick cat. He was bleeding and it was impossible to tell why. Off she raced to a nearby emergency hospital. The cat went into shock as soon as he was taken back to be examined. It was ultimately discovered, on x-ray, that he had swallowed something. No one knew what it could be since my friend is very careful to keep everything locked away and out of reach of a curious kitty. When he finally passed it, it turned out to be a necklace lost in my friend’s house by a neighbor child. It had cut the cat up so badly inside that the veterinary internal medicine specialist was amazed that he had healed so well. Fortunately, he is home and recovering although I doubt as much can be said for my friend’s bank balance. But that was not her consideration when trying to save her beloved cat’s life.
Others have not fared as well.
One of my friends is a delivery room nurse at a major hospital. She’s a dog breeder with a good deal of experience and her education helps her with veterinary emergencies. Her veterinarian had moved to a new house and didn’t have phones in her bedroom yet when my friend had a litter due imminently. My friend had spoken with her in the early evening and they planned a c-section but it appeared that the little mother-to-be had gone to sleep. She woke up in full blown labor and my friend couldn’t reach her veterinarian so she brought the little dog to the emergency hospital and told them she needed a c-section. They said they’d be the judge of that and took her back to examine her. They said she was quiet and put her in a quiet, dark room. My friend asked if they’d ever seen that breed before. They hadn’t. She told them that she’d been breeding them for a number of years and she c-sectioned her dogs because, as a man-made breed, she knew the pelvis of the mother is usually too small to accommodate the large heads that these dogs have. She didn’t want to lose a puppy. She also told them that the girl’s mother and sister both had needed c-sections because the puppies wouldn’t fit through the pelvis. Amazingly enough, they argued with her! She said she wanted to see the attending. Incredibly, they said there wasn’t one in house. They determined the puppy was in the birth canal but said they wouldn’t guarantee the safety of the pup. They wanted to give her pitocin (to increase labor). My friend told them the head was too big for the pelvis and pitocin would only serve to ram the head into unyielding bones and not do anything except to exhaust the mother and injure, if not kill, the other pups.
My friend told them that she was a Labor and Delivery Room Nurse and they said that the human model is not the same as the canine one to which my friend replied that the basics are still the same: the passage, the passenger, and the forces.
My friend was very frustrated because she knew what had to be done and all they had done was argue with her for 3 ½ precious hours! Time was quickly slipping by when they finally said they’d take blood and call the attending at home with the results. She asked if they could call him and have him come in while the bloodwork was done. They said it wasn’t the policy. They’d give him the results before he came in. When he finally arrived, after they made her sign papers that she had refused pitocin, they did the C-Section and the puppy was dead. She asked if the puppy was the biggest in the litter. The attending said it was the smallest. She explained that if he, being the smallest, couldn’t fit through, could he imagine what would have happened to the other four larger puppies if the dam had pitocin? He stared over her head. My friend was relieved to get out of there with the mother and surviving puppies. I keep thinking of that other puppy who was dead as a result of the unyielding intern who was obviously inept and uninformed and claimed to be following policy. They are clearly responsible for that puppy’s death.
And then, in another part of the country is an owner who had two dogs die, separately, in an emergency hospital. Her Toy dog was sprayed by a poisonous Colorado Bull Toad, and she had to rush him to the hospital in the middle of the night. They gave him a drug not tested for poisoning in dogs and he died as a direct result of improper treatment. The drug is meant to stop car sickness and she questioned that since you are supposed to make a dog vomit up poisonous material, not stop him from getting it out of his system. An incorrectly administered drug that hadn’t even been tested for that purpose.
Her other dog died because the hospital was in violation of a State code: they didn’t have proper staff on duty with proper credentials. The State in which she resides requires that a 24 hour emergency hospital have a board certified emergency veterinarian in the building. Twice she has been there when there has only been an Intern in the hospital, a direct violation of the regulations. They also said they couldn’t treat the dog, they hadn’t so much as x-rayed him, and they insisted he be moved which is something that shouldn’t be done with a critically ill patient of any species. By the time he got to the next hospital, where he was x-rayed, his lungs had filled with fluid. Nothing could save him at that point, no matter how much money she was willing to spend. He died at the second hospital.
What has happened to each of these owners and their dogs is unconscionable. We must demand better treatment and competent staffing. There must be more than the almighty dollar of importance to these emergency hospitals. There has to be accountability. If they cannot operate properly and with proper staffing then they should not be allowed to operate.
Then where will owners go? Well, I have to wonder whether there’s any difference between no emergency hospital and one that does such a disservice to animals and their owners that the end result is a dead dog or cat, a heartbroken owner, and an outrageous veterinary bill. Perhaps for those facilities the bottom line is really all that matters.
Monday, December 8, 2008
A Kinder, Gentler World...
I have long been an advocate of positive training. Like so many people, I'm what is known as a "cross-over" trainer. We learned the old aversive methods and I disliked them intensely even then. I loathed the sight of a choke collar. And with good cause. The name itself explains it. And I have to wonder: what part of choke don't people understand? Oh, sure, aversive trainers use words like "pop," as if it were an insignificant movement by the human. It is not insignificant. They call it a "training collar." Another name doesn't change it. And alpha rolls are not a means of communication between dogs and owners; they are a good way to get bitten. It's rather like sitting up and begging to be bitten. Humans are not dogs and vice versa. Aversives might work in the short term but aggression begets aggression and sooner or later, those methods will backfire. They will surely damage the human-animal bond. What good is a relationship that's built on fear?
Old-fashioned trainers talk about "dominance." Are they so insecure that they feel they have to be "dominant" over an animal? If you watch that sort of "training" on videotape or television, turn off the sound and watch the dog. What do you see? The answer is fear. And fear is not a good foundation for a relationship with a living, breathing, sentient being. Practicing 30 year old training methodologies, or going to a trainer who does, is pretty much like taking your dog to a veterinarian who practices 30 year old medical methodologies. Why would you want to do that?
I'm very pleased to say that I'm not alone in believing that operant conditioning (clicker training), or lure and reward based methods, are far better and create a strong bond. There are many trainers, behaviorists, and behavior consultants who also strongly believe this, and seeing is believing. Dogs with positive training are competing in all canine sports and doing well at the highest levels. Even more importantly: they're living in homes as beloved family members with a very tightly shared bond and it certainly wasn't fear that led them there.
It is important to note that the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recently released a position statement titled, "The Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals." (http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=80&Itemid=366) The paper can be downloaded in .pdf form from their website. I strongly urge you to read this position statement and point others in its direction as well.
"I sing for the animals..,." Teton Sioux. They did. We should, too. We must speak for those who cannot speak for themselves. When we bring them into our homes, when we see them with their owners, we must give them voice. We must not allow the misguided "training" that is tantamount to abuse.
There are those who insist the old methods are the only way. How sad that they will not acknowledge that it isn't true, will not even try another way, that they are so stuck in the past that they cannot see the present, let alone the future. Positive training is so simple that even a child can do it. It opens up a line of communication between the four-legged companion and his or her human family and helps create a loving, lasting bond. Isn't that what we want?
There are many places where you can find positive training as well as behavior consultants practicing positive training methodologies. A good place to start learning about positive training is Karen Pryor's website (www.clickertraining.com) where you will find resources including a listing of trainers who use operant conditioning.
If you have problems, you can find Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorists who can help you. The American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (www.dacvb.org) has an online presence. Your veterinarian can refer you to a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist if there's one in your area. There are Applied Animal Behaviorists (http://www.animalbehavior.org/ABSAppliedBehavior) and there are Certified Animal Behavior Consultants certified by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (www.iaabc.org).
There is nothing better than building a bond of trust. And, yes, you can solve behavior problems using positive methods. I filled a book ("Rover, Get Off Her Leg!") with positive ways to solve problems. Emma Parsons wrote a wonderful book, "Click to Calm," on solving dog aggression problems with positive methods. Those are only two of many books and DVDs available to help people and their dogs.
Do yourself, and your dog, a favor and, as the classic song title proclaimed, "Accentuate the Positive."
Old-fashioned trainers talk about "dominance." Are they so insecure that they feel they have to be "dominant" over an animal? If you watch that sort of "training" on videotape or television, turn off the sound and watch the dog. What do you see? The answer is fear. And fear is not a good foundation for a relationship with a living, breathing, sentient being. Practicing 30 year old training methodologies, or going to a trainer who does, is pretty much like taking your dog to a veterinarian who practices 30 year old medical methodologies. Why would you want to do that?
I'm very pleased to say that I'm not alone in believing that operant conditioning (clicker training), or lure and reward based methods, are far better and create a strong bond. There are many trainers, behaviorists, and behavior consultants who also strongly believe this, and seeing is believing. Dogs with positive training are competing in all canine sports and doing well at the highest levels. Even more importantly: they're living in homes as beloved family members with a very tightly shared bond and it certainly wasn't fear that led them there.
It is important to note that the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recently released a position statement titled, "The Use of Dominance Theory in Behavior Modification of Animals." (http://www.avsabonline.org/avsabonline/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=80&Itemid=366) The paper can be downloaded in .pdf form from their website. I strongly urge you to read this position statement and point others in its direction as well.
"I sing for the animals..,." Teton Sioux. They did. We should, too. We must speak for those who cannot speak for themselves. When we bring them into our homes, when we see them with their owners, we must give them voice. We must not allow the misguided "training" that is tantamount to abuse.
There are those who insist the old methods are the only way. How sad that they will not acknowledge that it isn't true, will not even try another way, that they are so stuck in the past that they cannot see the present, let alone the future. Positive training is so simple that even a child can do it. It opens up a line of communication between the four-legged companion and his or her human family and helps create a loving, lasting bond. Isn't that what we want?
There are many places where you can find positive training as well as behavior consultants practicing positive training methodologies. A good place to start learning about positive training is Karen Pryor's website (www.clickertraining.com) where you will find resources including a listing of trainers who use operant conditioning.
If you have problems, you can find Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorists who can help you. The American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (www.dacvb.org) has an online presence. Your veterinarian can refer you to a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist if there's one in your area. There are Applied Animal Behaviorists (http://www.animalbehavior.org/ABSAppliedBehavior) and there are Certified Animal Behavior Consultants certified by the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (www.iaabc.org).
There is nothing better than building a bond of trust. And, yes, you can solve behavior problems using positive methods. I filled a book ("Rover, Get Off Her Leg!") with positive ways to solve problems. Emma Parsons wrote a wonderful book, "Click to Calm," on solving dog aggression problems with positive methods. Those are only two of many books and DVDs available to help people and their dogs.
Do yourself, and your dog, a favor and, as the classic song title proclaimed, "Accentuate the Positive."
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Toys for Dogs & Cats
I know you're thinking about holiday gift-giving. Dogs and cats are a great part of that. We not only buy things for them but for our friends' companions as well.
I want to take a minute or two to remind you to be careful when buying toys for your pets or others. There is no regulatory group for pet toys. The industry relies on manufacturers to police themselves. That cute little toy you've been admiring may not be the safest thing for your beloved companion. And the way in which you play must also be considered.
Look for loose parts. If you can loosen it, your dog or cat can, too. And if the pet consumes it, disaster may follow with a swallowed toy, or toy part, getting lodged in your pet's throat or intestinal tract. A visit to the veterinarian or emergency veterinary hospital may ensue. And so might an expensive surgery to remove said object.
Dog toys with squeakers can be a real problem if the squeaker isn't secure. Remove the squeaker before the dog or puppies does precisely that and swallows it. Any little piece glued on can be easily removed. Chew toys made like twisted rags can shred and the yarn can be swallowed. They can also get very dirty. They're not a great idea unless they can be used to grab a loose tooth. Supervise all play with this type of toy.
Be careful of feathers on cat toys. They will usually come off and can be swallowed. Mylar cat teasers can cause the equivilent of a paper cut on the cat's mouth if it is caught by the cat at a certain angle. Why take a chance?
Interactive cat toys must be put away between play sessions. Cats can easily get tangled up in the wire or cord or string. Make play sessions with these toys special times for interaction each day instead.
Laser toys shouldn't be on your list. Having had laser surgery on my eye, I can tell you how powerful a laser can be and a rapidly moving dog or cat can easily find the light in their eye while the well-meaning owner is trying to keep up with movement. Opt for another toy instead. You can always use a flashlight if you want to play with a light. But be certain that the game starts with the light coming from a specific place and is "returned" to that specific place when the game ends so your dog or cat doesn't go crazy looking for the light!
If you're buying your cat a new cat tree or scratching post, be certain that it has a solid base and can't be tipped over. Also your cat should be able to stretch out full-length against it.
Dog toys that can be stuffed should have an opening at the other end so it doesn't create a vacuum, allowing the dog's tongue to be caught inside.
Inspect everything! Don't buy anything that looks "iffy." Since there is no overseeing body to ensure safety it's up to you to inspect all toys as you would for a small child.
And remember to stay in the room the first time you give a new toy to your pet. You want to be there in case something goes wrong. If there's a problem, you want to be there, on the spot to intervene. Your pets are depending on you!
Have a wonderful, safe holiday!
I want to take a minute or two to remind you to be careful when buying toys for your pets or others. There is no regulatory group for pet toys. The industry relies on manufacturers to police themselves. That cute little toy you've been admiring may not be the safest thing for your beloved companion. And the way in which you play must also be considered.
Look for loose parts. If you can loosen it, your dog or cat can, too. And if the pet consumes it, disaster may follow with a swallowed toy, or toy part, getting lodged in your pet's throat or intestinal tract. A visit to the veterinarian or emergency veterinary hospital may ensue. And so might an expensive surgery to remove said object.
Dog toys with squeakers can be a real problem if the squeaker isn't secure. Remove the squeaker before the dog or puppies does precisely that and swallows it. Any little piece glued on can be easily removed. Chew toys made like twisted rags can shred and the yarn can be swallowed. They can also get very dirty. They're not a great idea unless they can be used to grab a loose tooth. Supervise all play with this type of toy.
Be careful of feathers on cat toys. They will usually come off and can be swallowed. Mylar cat teasers can cause the equivilent of a paper cut on the cat's mouth if it is caught by the cat at a certain angle. Why take a chance?
Interactive cat toys must be put away between play sessions. Cats can easily get tangled up in the wire or cord or string. Make play sessions with these toys special times for interaction each day instead.
Laser toys shouldn't be on your list. Having had laser surgery on my eye, I can tell you how powerful a laser can be and a rapidly moving dog or cat can easily find the light in their eye while the well-meaning owner is trying to keep up with movement. Opt for another toy instead. You can always use a flashlight if you want to play with a light. But be certain that the game starts with the light coming from a specific place and is "returned" to that specific place when the game ends so your dog or cat doesn't go crazy looking for the light!
If you're buying your cat a new cat tree or scratching post, be certain that it has a solid base and can't be tipped over. Also your cat should be able to stretch out full-length against it.
Dog toys that can be stuffed should have an opening at the other end so it doesn't create a vacuum, allowing the dog's tongue to be caught inside.
Inspect everything! Don't buy anything that looks "iffy." Since there is no overseeing body to ensure safety it's up to you to inspect all toys as you would for a small child.
And remember to stay in the room the first time you give a new toy to your pet. You want to be there in case something goes wrong. If there's a problem, you want to be there, on the spot to intervene. Your pets are depending on you!
Have a wonderful, safe holiday!
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Thanksgiving and The Family Dog
Ahhh, Thanksgiving. It's coming and so are the guests. And the tempting kitchen smells. Turkey roasting in the oven, potatoes, yams, and the desserts. Apple pie, pumpkin pie, pecan pie. Well, you get the idea and if you're anything like me, you're drooling at the thought. Guess who else is getting excited? Your canine companion.
If you've read my behavior book, "Rover, Get Off Her Leg!" (H.C.I. Communications) you know what dogs are capable of doing during a holiday when those smells are soooo tempting. You know where that turkey can end up and in what condition. And with company coming your dog will have to be on his or her best behavior.
Now is the time to start thinking about your dog's "company manners," his comportment, her etiquette in polite company. Well, truthfully, you should have thought about it sooner but better late than never.
Be sure you feed your dog early in the day. Your dog's daily ration should be divided into two separate meals. One fed at breakfast and the other at dinnertime. Your dog will be eating when you are so there's less temptation to give in to his pitiful glances. Never feed your dog at the table. He should learn early on that he waits politely until the family has finished eating and then he can receive a treat, whether that's in the middle of the afternoon, or in the evening. During the holiday, that treat can be a small piece of turkey. He is not allowed to beg, climb up on the table (yes, dogs do that!) or otherwise cajole family members and guests into giving him food from their plates. Remember that onions are poisonous to dogs so keep those well out of reach. The same for chocolate! And nothing laced with nutmeg....
Your dog should also greet visitors politely, with all four feet on the floor. No jumping up allowed. It's too easy for many dogs to knock Grandma or Grandpa off their feet. While this face-to-face greeting is normal dog behavior, it is not normal human behavior and your dog is living in human society and will need to learn the rules of comportment. Sitting politely and waiting to be acknowledged is optimum. Getting underfoot can be equally hazardous for some family members.
You'll also have to enlist the cooperation of your guests. They can't pet the dog unless he's either sitting or standing quietly and no sneaking food to the dog under the table!
Thanksgiving can be a wonderful holiday or a complete canine disaster. The choice is yours. Start training now with positive reinforcement, setting your dog up to do the right thing so he can be rewarded for it. This will pay dividends in the end, for you and for your dog.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your four-legged family members.
If you've read my behavior book, "Rover, Get Off Her Leg!" (H.C.I. Communications) you know what dogs are capable of doing during a holiday when those smells are soooo tempting. You know where that turkey can end up and in what condition. And with company coming your dog will have to be on his or her best behavior.
Now is the time to start thinking about your dog's "company manners," his comportment, her etiquette in polite company. Well, truthfully, you should have thought about it sooner but better late than never.
Be sure you feed your dog early in the day. Your dog's daily ration should be divided into two separate meals. One fed at breakfast and the other at dinnertime. Your dog will be eating when you are so there's less temptation to give in to his pitiful glances. Never feed your dog at the table. He should learn early on that he waits politely until the family has finished eating and then he can receive a treat, whether that's in the middle of the afternoon, or in the evening. During the holiday, that treat can be a small piece of turkey. He is not allowed to beg, climb up on the table (yes, dogs do that!) or otherwise cajole family members and guests into giving him food from their plates. Remember that onions are poisonous to dogs so keep those well out of reach. The same for chocolate! And nothing laced with nutmeg....
Your dog should also greet visitors politely, with all four feet on the floor. No jumping up allowed. It's too easy for many dogs to knock Grandma or Grandpa off their feet. While this face-to-face greeting is normal dog behavior, it is not normal human behavior and your dog is living in human society and will need to learn the rules of comportment. Sitting politely and waiting to be acknowledged is optimum. Getting underfoot can be equally hazardous for some family members.
You'll also have to enlist the cooperation of your guests. They can't pet the dog unless he's either sitting or standing quietly and no sneaking food to the dog under the table!
Thanksgiving can be a wonderful holiday or a complete canine disaster. The choice is yours. Start training now with positive reinforcement, setting your dog up to do the right thing so he can be rewarded for it. This will pay dividends in the end, for you and for your dog.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your four-legged family members.
Saturday, November 8, 2008
Presidents, Dogs and The Right Stuff
There has been so much talk recently about the president elect's plan to get a puppy for his daughters, and the current president's dog biting a reporter. I promised myself I wouldn't add to the white noise of discussion and yet, here I am. I think it's because I'm frustrated by both situations.
Let's start with the current administration. There's no doubt in my mind that President George and Laura Bush love their Scotties. I don't know how the dogs were trained but I have my suspicions. There were at least two factors coming into play when dog teeth met reporter's hand. First and foremost, it's imperative that everyone know how to properly approach a dog. Never, ever swoop down on a dog and shove your hand at him. This simply isn't prudent. The dog-loving reporter was not dog-savvy. No dog likes anyone to swoop down on him. And you should never reach out to a strange dog. Move slowly. Get down to the dog's level if possible. Always present a strange dog with your closed hand and let him sniff your knuckles. And before you even think about doing any of that, ask if you may pat the dog. The dog's owner or handler will be able to tell you if that's a good idea. You, too, can avoid being bitten.
Add to this the dog breed. The Scottish Terrier is pretty well known for being "dour." Terriers are feisty dogs and the Scottie is no exception. He is, perhaps, not the best choice for a dog who is going to be greeting strangers. Any dog would be hard-pressed to be warm and welcoming all the time when being approached incorrectly by strangers, or even by people he knows. Put the huge press corp on the lawn with cameras, etc. and you have an accident waiting to happen.
Now we have a President Elect who has promised his children a puppy. One child is allergic to dogs and he's saying that he can get a "hypoallergenic" dog. Uh, sorry. There's no such thing and whoever told him this was doing his family and the potential new four-legged family member a great disservice. Dogs who have hair, not fur, are far less likely to cause a problem however the problem lies with the dander, not the hair or fur. To bring home a puppy and then discover that the child is allergic is going to cause a problem not just for the family but for the puppy as well who will be uprooted from his original home and then will be a likely candidate for rehoming after he washes out as First Pet.
Then there was that horrible moment when Obama stated that it wouldn't be a small dog because he wouldn't walk a small dog. Let me state unequivocally that I do not recommend Toy dogs for homes with children despite the plaintive voice of one of the Obama daughters mentioning a "Yorkshire." It's seldom a good match. I say that as someone whose area of expertise is Toy and Small dogs. But the statement that he wouldn't walk a small dog? I have often said, and I'm not the first to say it, that it takes a big man to walk a little dog, is true. It takes a man who is secure in his masculinity, is sure of himself as a person to care only that he has a dog he loves who loves him and those he loves. Size doesn't matter to such men. For those who won't walk a small dog, well, I have said before that those people have a problem that I can't handle.
An issue that is important for every dog, whether in the White House or your house, is training along with socialization. All dogs and puppies must be properly socialized. Crucial to the way in which the dog or puppy will respond to those around him is the way in which he's trained. Aggression begets aggression and training a dog with old, aversive methods will only come back to bite you. Literally. Some of those things may work in the short term but sooner or later the dog will react. Operant conditioning is ideal. Even a child can do it. Literally. And this would be the ideal way to get the children involved with their new dog.
So, how to choose that dog or puppy? A shelter dog would be right for most families but there's less of a chance of finding one who won't cause allergy problems. Better is to find a breed that the child can tolerate and then go to Breed Rescue for that specific breed and give a forever home to a dog who deserves a second chance, who may have been thrown away by his first owner for any one of a myriad of stupid reasons. Whatever they do, I hope for the sake of the dog and the children that the commitment is for the dog's lifetime. And doing it right is having the right stuff.
Let's start with the current administration. There's no doubt in my mind that President George and Laura Bush love their Scotties. I don't know how the dogs were trained but I have my suspicions. There were at least two factors coming into play when dog teeth met reporter's hand. First and foremost, it's imperative that everyone know how to properly approach a dog. Never, ever swoop down on a dog and shove your hand at him. This simply isn't prudent. The dog-loving reporter was not dog-savvy. No dog likes anyone to swoop down on him. And you should never reach out to a strange dog. Move slowly. Get down to the dog's level if possible. Always present a strange dog with your closed hand and let him sniff your knuckles. And before you even think about doing any of that, ask if you may pat the dog. The dog's owner or handler will be able to tell you if that's a good idea. You, too, can avoid being bitten.
Add to this the dog breed. The Scottish Terrier is pretty well known for being "dour." Terriers are feisty dogs and the Scottie is no exception. He is, perhaps, not the best choice for a dog who is going to be greeting strangers. Any dog would be hard-pressed to be warm and welcoming all the time when being approached incorrectly by strangers, or even by people he knows. Put the huge press corp on the lawn with cameras, etc. and you have an accident waiting to happen.
Now we have a President Elect who has promised his children a puppy. One child is allergic to dogs and he's saying that he can get a "hypoallergenic" dog. Uh, sorry. There's no such thing and whoever told him this was doing his family and the potential new four-legged family member a great disservice. Dogs who have hair, not fur, are far less likely to cause a problem however the problem lies with the dander, not the hair or fur. To bring home a puppy and then discover that the child is allergic is going to cause a problem not just for the family but for the puppy as well who will be uprooted from his original home and then will be a likely candidate for rehoming after he washes out as First Pet.
Then there was that horrible moment when Obama stated that it wouldn't be a small dog because he wouldn't walk a small dog. Let me state unequivocally that I do not recommend Toy dogs for homes with children despite the plaintive voice of one of the Obama daughters mentioning a "Yorkshire." It's seldom a good match. I say that as someone whose area of expertise is Toy and Small dogs. But the statement that he wouldn't walk a small dog? I have often said, and I'm not the first to say it, that it takes a big man to walk a little dog, is true. It takes a man who is secure in his masculinity, is sure of himself as a person to care only that he has a dog he loves who loves him and those he loves. Size doesn't matter to such men. For those who won't walk a small dog, well, I have said before that those people have a problem that I can't handle.
An issue that is important for every dog, whether in the White House or your house, is training along with socialization. All dogs and puppies must be properly socialized. Crucial to the way in which the dog or puppy will respond to those around him is the way in which he's trained. Aggression begets aggression and training a dog with old, aversive methods will only come back to bite you. Literally. Some of those things may work in the short term but sooner or later the dog will react. Operant conditioning is ideal. Even a child can do it. Literally. And this would be the ideal way to get the children involved with their new dog.
So, how to choose that dog or puppy? A shelter dog would be right for most families but there's less of a chance of finding one who won't cause allergy problems. Better is to find a breed that the child can tolerate and then go to Breed Rescue for that specific breed and give a forever home to a dog who deserves a second chance, who may have been thrown away by his first owner for any one of a myriad of stupid reasons. Whatever they do, I hope for the sake of the dog and the children that the commitment is for the dog's lifetime. And doing it right is having the right stuff.
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